By Linah Hashmi

Ah oui, there’s nothing like waking up to couture week, it makes my fashion days as luxurious as the snow that poured over City of Love this week – but that didn’t stop fashionistas, vips, couturiers, and you had a full six days of the highest-end luxury, exquisite glamour, timeless elegance, and  bellissima couture! And it wasn’t without its drama and you know how much we love some drama! But if you’re looking for boring textbook, made to impress reviews, then you’re at the wrong place -here I say it like it is, this is my highly opiniated, raw report of the couture that unfolded:

Atelier Versace

One of my best couture shows of the week, Donatella Versace took couture to contemporary in her brilliant unconventional structured pant suits, Balmain-like statement shoulders, luxury day wear with 24 k gold pin stripe suits, a hint of neon, some feathered drama and to-die -for designs that literally re-sculpted the body and delivered an outstanding collection! She showed you just how to pull of glamorous day wear the couture way by breaking the status quo. Damn, Donatella! My favourite moment of all? When she walked the runway after the finale. She is THE queen of couture!

My best looks:

Chanel

I wasn’t as impressed with Chanel‘s couture line- most of it wasn’t much different from his previous collections – what with the boring 18th century feathered gowns, tweed jackets blah, (what was with the whole gothic girl goes floral?), but then his lesbian brides came down the garden themed finale, and my impress level went from 4 to zero. Thanks Karl Lagerfeld, now whenever someone wears a Chanel couture bridal gown to their wedding they won’t help but feel happy & gay!

My not-so-best looks:

Dior

From one garden to another – this garden was much better – It was all about the intricate details at Dior. The color blocking, the cut out gowns, the beaded dresses, the dramatic bottoms, the cropped gilets – so much sexiness yet so sophisticatedly done. Leave it to Raf Simons to make bustiers look so elegant! I miss John Galliano Dior days but I also am falling in love with Raf Simons version of Dior.

My best looks:

Armani Prive

After the constellation outfit and silly tiny lids on top of models’ heads at his ss13 rtw show – I hoped for something more tasteful at Giorgio Armani Prive. Oh boy, the silly hats made an appearance again (what is with him lately and his obsession with those freaking hats) along with tiny wands as accessories on the outfit -but hope was not lost – I loved his collection (Although I seriously think he can let go of the whole pants under dresses trend that he started some seasons ago!). I especially loved the vibrant color palette , the ruby reds, the silver and the sequinned gowns – true to Armani’s DNA with a touch of saffron, the satin added the glamour, zig zag and checkered patterns- the entire collection together looked a bit wizard of oz-y slash european woman goes to egypt but individually I loved the outfits. And if you can still impress me after all that Mr. Armani, you’re still King!

My best looks:

Giambattista Valli

Ah Si, one of my favourite couturiers, Valli‘s incredible intimate details of his dresses could make you live your fairytale! And although I disagree with Armani‘s trousers under dresses trend, Valli pulled it off beautifully! If there was the perfect romance in Rome moment, this was it! He re-defined flawless! Bellissima couture!

My best looks:

Alexandre Vauthier

I died when I saw Alexandre Vauthier‘s couture. Period. His not-so-subtle sex appeal outifts have become a red carpet craze and i’m definitely a fan! His all black & gold collection, similar to Versace, was glamorous contemporary daywear but with much more sexiness! The navel cut outs, thigh-high slits, (even with the peek-a-boo boobie moment of one of the models – I don’t know what the whole media rant was about, as if there have never been any wardrobe malfunctions on catwalks!), his collection was oozing seduction. I don’t know what I loved more – the sexy silhouettes or those stunning black and gold strappy pair of Christian Louboutins!

My best looks:

Elie Saab

This was one of my best couture shows after Versace! You just couldn’t help but fall in love with Elie Saab‘s regal, caped beauties & timeless elegance that have long become his signature. Delicate creations that flowed flawlessly on the body..no surprise, nothing different, the usual beads, lace, capes, heavenly designs yet he somehow comes up with an even better collection each time. And his couture bride was just phenomenal!

My best looks:

Jean Paul Gaultier

Trust Jean-Paul to know how to run a show! His bollywood inspired couture couldn’t be more bollywood! And as if the wedding gown wasn’t dramatic enough, with four children coming out of it – which didn’t make any sense..but then nothing makes sense in bollywood anyway, the drama didn’t stop there! The bride was carrying a -are you ready for this- a toy baby…in a backpack! That just killed it for me! When he had his male models stripping at the men’s aw’13 show, I had said that only JPG could make something like that look classy! But this was an epic fail!! But it wouldn’t be Bollywood without some drama & ridiculous ending right? I did however loved some of his outfits that were nothing out of an Indian movie. So minus the bride with tacky packpack baby and children under her skirt, Jean Paul Gaultier stunned the fashion world as always with his stand-out couture collection!

My best looks:

Zuhair Murad

Gold greek goddesses! That’s what Zuhair Murad‘s beautiful couture collection was all about. He won his place in couture with his richly embroidered bodice dissolved into sequined arabesques on a nude silk tulle train and barouqe tones, and only Zuhair Murad could pull off a couture gown-ish look in a cat suit and make that look appealing & elegant! But I have a feeling it won’t be long before Kristen Stewart kills his outfits.

My best looks:

Maison Valentino

When haute couture comes to mind, Maison Valentino will always remain on top! The most beautiful collection of the week – this is what couture should be all about! Oh the lace, the cape, the romance, and the gracefulness with which Valentino‘s designs moved…magical. A couture in its purest form, 19th century glamour, vintage fabrics, luxe embroidery, and whats a Valentino runway without their signature red gowns! I’ve always said this – no one does red like Valentino! In their couture is where your dream literally comes alive. And the time, the flawless effort, the pain that goes into their every outfit with the highest of couture quality is what makes Maison Valentino the Master of Couture! What better way to end haute couture week!

My best looks:

You can e-mail Linah Hashmi at: fashion@shoesanddrama.com